Dear All,
With the Mara in the thick of the rains, Vicki and I took little persuasion to take time out for our own safari and decided to explore the Lake Baringo area where we stayed for 7 nights at Robert’s Camp in one of their safari tents, with meals provided at the Thirsty Goat “pub” situated on-site. We thoroughly enjoyed this campsite and the place was full of great birds. Equally, the staff we’re very friendly and we were able to completely unwind. On the advice of Brian Finch, we employed the guiding services of Francis for a couple of days who was absolutely superb. His knowledge, enthusiasm and ability to get us onto good birds was exactly what we hoped for and I cannot recommend Francis enough to anyone else passing through this area. I’ll happily provide his contact details on request.
As well as taking the essential boat trips on the lake, we took a drive into the nearby Tugen Hills for a morning and were rewarded with some great birds including two White-crested Turaco which were among the highlights of our entire trip.
On deciding whether to hit the coast (Arabuko-Sokoke) or try Kakamega, we opted at the last minute for the latter and took a steady drive across the Kerio Valley and the westerly plateaux before reaching our destination. Here we stayed in a fine vintage cottage at Rondo Retreat which we were delighted with. The food and service were excellent here and the birding exceeded my, already high, expectations. Francis had recommended we try to find a local guide named Ben but he was away so we tried out another guy (who’ll remain anon.) on the recommendation of the lodge but after just an hour we found that he wasn’t so good and we did our own thing for the rest of the first full day. Next day, we went out with Gabriel who was a delight and quite knowledgeable and he took us to some good areas where we found some quality birds, including a party of at least a dozen Turner’s Eremomela. The birding in and around the Retreat was also outstanding and we can’t wait to return.
We went back to the Rift Valley and stayed for two nights at the Sunbird Lodge on Lake Elementaita which was just amazing. The build quality of this fairly new establishment is almost beyond comparison and our two night stay there was a complete pleasure. Although a little more expensive than our previous digs, it really was money well spent and like Rondo Retreat, I cannot recommend this place highly enough. The birding on site was equally brilliant and we were fortunate enough to stay in the banda called “Kingfisher” which had Little Rock Thrush, Schalow’s Wheatear and Lyne’s Cisticola all within 1 metre of our veranda!!!! The nearby Soysambu Conservancy made a perfect place for birding excursions (there is also good game there) and we were able to drive along the lakeshore for the experience of being amongst thousands of flamingos.
On the last night of our journey, we opted to try the Magadi Road area (Brian’s reports of this area had tantalised this particular birder!) and we decided to try the Whistling Thorns which is c.13km east of Kiserian. Although the food was pretty good, we didn’t enjoy the accommodation or the atmosphere here at all although it was by far the cheapest of our digs on this trip. We tried our luck the next day just birding along the road in the dry valleys and were rewarded with some good birds and interesting scenery.
All in all, we were delighted with our first safari outside of the Mara and found all the locals across the country to be very friendly, warm and welcoming, not to mention the very pleasing experience of being saluted by almost every Policeman that we passed once outside of Nairobi. What a change to Tanzania where they stop you at every given opportunity for bribes!
We look forward to birding these same areas again in the future but will have to take in the coastal sites next time as well. Sadly, time does not permit me to write a full report of this entire trip but I have written below a list of all the species we encountered at the different sites. If anyone would like any further information about any of the records below, please don’t hesitate to contact me directly on this email address. New birds for my LIFE list are highlighted in BOLD.
I’ll be heading back to the Mara from 11th May and plan to be there until the end of October so “Karibu Naibor Camp” to anyone that will be passing the area.
Warmest regards to all,
Adam Scott Kennedy
Lake Baringo and Tugen Hills
Common Ostrich
Long-tailed Cormorant
African Darter
Black-headed Heron
Grey Heron
Goliath Heron
Purple Heron
Squacco Heron
Cattle Egret
Striated Heron
Great White Egret
Black Heron
Little Egret
Hamerkop
Open-billed Stork
Abdim's Stork
Marabou Stork
Yellow-billed Stork
Hadada Ibis
Glossy Ibis
Egyptian Goose
White-faced Whistling-Duck
Knob-billed Duck
Great Sparrowhawk
Verreaux's Eagle
Augur Buzzard
Steppe Buzzard
Brown Snake Eagle
Black-chested Snake Eagle
African Fish Eagle
Dark Chanting Goshawk
Peregrine
Lanner
Lesser Kestrel
Rock Kestrel
Crested Francolin
Black Crake
Grey Crowned Crane
African Jacana
Black-winged Stilt
Senegal Thick-knee
Heuglin's Courser
Spur-winged Plover
Common Sandpiper
Wood Sandpiper
Grey-headed Gull
Whiskered Tern
Speckled Pigeon
Namaqua Dove
Mourning Dove
Red-eyed Dove
Laughing Dove
Emerald-spotted Wood-Dove
Meyer's Parrot
White-bellied Go-away-bird
Ross's Turaco
White-crested Turaco
Didric Cuckoo
Klaas' Cuckoo
Great Spotted Cuckoo
Black Cuckoo
Red-chested Cuckoo
Jacobin Cuckoo
Greyish Eagle-Owl
Verreaux's Eagle-Owl
Pearl-spotted Owlet
Northern White-faced Owl
Slender-tailed Nightjar
Mottled Swift
Little Swift
White-rumped Swift
Speckled Mousebird
Blue-naped Mousebird
Malachite Kingfisher
Pied Kingfisher
Woodland Kingfisher
Pygmy Kingfisher
Giant Kingfisher
Cinnamon-chested Bee-eater
Little Bee-eater
Lilac-breasted Roller
Rufous-crowned Roller
African Hoopoe
Green Wood-hoopoe
Black-and-White-casqued Hornbill
Crowned Hornbill
Red-billed Hornbill
Eastern Yellow-billed Hornbill
Hemprich's Hornbill
Jackson's Hornbill
Grey Hornbill
Yellow-rumped Tinkerbird
Red-fronted Tinkerbird
Usambiro Barbet
Red-and-yellow Barbet
Red-fronted Barbet
Black-throated Barbet
Lesser Honeyguide
Nubian Woodpecker
Cardinal Woodpecker
Grey Woodpecker
Fischer's Sparrow-Lark
Pink-breasted Lark
African Pied Wagtail
Yellow Wagtail (thunbergi)
Lesser Striped Swallow
Red-rumped Swallow
Wire-tailed Swallow
Rock Martin
Barn Swallow
Black Saw-wing
Yellow-vented Bulbul
Northern Brownbul
Brown Babbler
Rufous Chatterer
Brown-tailed Rock Chat
White-browed Scrub Robin
Spotted Morning Thrush
Cape Robin Chat
White-browed Robin-Chat
Little Rock Thrush
Cliff Chat
White-eyed Slaty Flycatcher
Yellow-breasted Apalis
Grey Wren Warbler
Grey-backed Camaroptera
Yellow-bellied Eremomela
Buff-bellied Warbler
Pale Prinia
Tawny-flanked Prinia
Red-fronted Warbler
Northern Crombec
Red-faced Crombec
Yellow White-eye
Northern Grey Tit
Grey Flycatcher
Pale Flycatcher
Mouse-coloured Penduline Tit
African Paradise Flycatcher
Pygmy Batis
Northern White-crowned Shrike
Common Fiscal
Northern Puffback
Tropical Boubou
Slate-coloured Boubou
Grey-headed Bush-shrike
Sulphur-breasted Bush-shrike
Brubru
Brown-crowned Tchagra
Fork-tailed Drongo
Black-headed Oriole
Pied Crow
Fan-tailed Raven
Red-billed Oxpecker
Violet-backed Starling
Greater Blue-eared Starling
Ruppell's Long-tailed Starling
Superb Starling
Bristle-crowned Starling
Magpie Starling
Collared Sunbird
Eastern Violet-backed Sunbird
Amethyst Sunbird
Hunter's Sunbird
Beautiful Sunbird
House Sparrow
Parrot-billed Sparrow
Grey-headed Sparrow
Yellow-spotted Petronia
White-browed Sparrow-Weaver
White-billed Buffalo-Weaver
White-headed Buffalo-Weaver
Speckle-fronted Weaver
Baglafecht Weaver
Village Weaver
Lesser Masked Weaver
Jackson's Golden-backed Weaver
Little Weaver
Northern Masked Weaver
Vitelline Masked Weaver
Red-headed Weaver
Red-billed Quelea
Yellow Bishop
Northern Red Bishop
Green-winged Pytilia
Crimson-rumped Waxbill
Red-cheeked Cordon-bleu
White-bellied Canary
Journey from Baringo to Kakamega
Black Kite
Crowned Crane
Red-winged Starling
African Firefinch
Kakamega
Grey Heron
Hadada Ibis
African Harrier-hawk
Buff-spotted Flufftail (Heard only; c.1km north of Rondo)
African Green Pigeon
Red-eyed Dove
Blue-spotted Wood-dove
Tambourine Dove
Great Blue Turaco
Black Cuckoo
Red-chested Cuckoo
Didric Cuckoo
Klaas’ Cuckoo
Emerald Cuckoo (H)
Speckled Mousebird
African Pygmy Kingfisher
Cinnamon-chested Bee-eater
Blue-headed Bee-eater (AMAZING!)
White-headed Wood-hoopoe
Black-and-white-casqued Hornbill
Yellow-rumped Tinkerbird
Grey-throated Barbet
Yellow-spotted Barbet
Double-toothed Barbet
Yellow-billed Barbet
Thick-billed Honeyguide
Buff-spotted Woodpecker
African Broadbill
Black Saw-wing
White-headed Saw-wing
Petit’s Cuckoo-shrike
Yellow-vented Bulbul
Yellow-whiskered Greenbul
Shelley’s Greenbul
Cabanis’s Greenbul
Toro Olive Greenbul
Joyful Greenbul
(Honeyguide Greenbul – a probable but poor view; appeared to show pale eye and kept high in canopy)
Red-tailed Bristlebill
Equatorial Akalat
Blue-shouldered Robin-chat
Snowy-crowned Robin-chat
Grey-winged Robin-chat
White-tailed Ant-thrush
African Thrush
African Stonechat
Uganda Woodland Warbler
Green Hylia
Black-faced Rufous warbler
Chubb’s Cisticola
Turner’s Eremomela
Banded (Black-faced) Prinia
White-chinned Prinia
Black-collared Apalis
Buff-throated Apalis
Northern Black Flycatcher
Dusky Flycatcher
African Shrike-flycatcher
Jamieson’s Wattle-eye
African Paradise Flycatcher
Dusky Crested Flycatcher
African Blue Flycatcher
Mountain Illadopsis (I didn’t even hear any other Illadopsis species, despite playing back recordings)
Yellow White-eye
Bronze Sunbird
Green-headed Sunbird
Olive-bellied Sunbird
Amethyst Sunbird
Scarlet-chested Sunbird
Green Sunbird
Collared Sunbird
Mackinnon’s Fiscal
Luhder’s Bush-shrike
Bocage’s Bush-shrike
Square-tailed Drongo
Stuhlmann’s Starling
Waller’s Starling
Grey-headed Sparrow
Black-necked Weaver
Black-billed Weaver
Brown-capped Weaver
Vieillot’s Black Weaver
Red-headed Malimbe
Red-headed Bluebill
Black-crowned Waxbill
Grey-headed Negrofinch
African Citril
Elementaita & Soysambu Conservancy
White Pelican
Long-tailed Cormorant
White-breasted Cormorant
African Darter
Cattle Egret
Great White Egret
African Spoonbill
Greater Flamingo
Lesser Flamingo
White Stork
Marabou Stork
Sacred Ibis
Hadada Ibis
Egyptian Goose
Hottentot Teal
Cape Teal
Southern Pochard
Augur Buzzard
Gabar Goshawk
African Fish Eagle
Long-crested Eagle
Harlequin Quail
African Jacana
Blacksmith Plover
Crowned Plover
Ringed Plover
Kittlitz’s Plover
Little Stint
Ruff
Grey-headed Gull
African Green Pigeon
Speckled Pigeon
Laughing Dove
Brown Parrot
Fischer’s Lovebird
Didric Cuckoo
Black Cuckoo
Montane Nightjar
White-rumped Swift
Speckled Mousebird
Blue-naped Mousebird
Malachite Kingfisher
Lilac-breasted Roller
African Hoopoe
Red-fronted Barbet
White-headed Barbet
Rufous-naped Lark
Fawn-coloured Lark
African Pied Wagtail
Rock Martin
Red-rumped Swallow
Lesser Striped Swallow
Barn Swallow
Yellow-throated Longclaw
Grassland Pipit
Yellow-vented Bulbul
Cape Robin-chat
Little Rock Thrush
Northern Anteater Chat
Schalow’s Wheatear
Lyne’s Cisticola
Tawny-flanked Prinia
Grey-backed Camaroptera
Yellow-breasted Apalis
Grey Flycatcher
Bronze Sunbird
Scarlet-chested Sunbird
Beautiful Sunbird
Variable Sunbird
Red-backed Shrike
Tropical Boubou
Fork-tailed Drongo
Pied Crow
Red-billed Oxpecker
Red-winged Starling
Greater Blue-eared Starling
Ruppell's Long-tailed Starling
Superb Starling
Wattled Starling
Kenya Rufous Sparrow
Grey-headed Sparrow
Yellow-spotted Petronia
Speckle-fronted Weaver
Chestnut Weaver
Village Weaver
Cardinal Quelea
Yellow Bishop
Jackson’s Widowbird
Red-collared Widowbird
Fan-tailed Widowbird
White-winged Widowbird
Common Waxbill
Red-cheeked Cordon-bleu
Purple Grenadier
Bronze Mannikin
Pin-tailed Whydah
Brimstone Canary
Yellow-rumped Seedeater
Magadi Road (from Ongata Rongai towards just north of Olorgasaillie)
Brown Snake Eagle
Black-faced Sandgrouse
Ring-necked Dove
Namaqua Dove
Jacobin Cuckoo
Rufous-crowned Roller
African Pygmy Kingfisher
Black-throated Barbet
Red-and-yellow Barbet
Fawn-breasted Lark
Singing Bush Lark
Fischer’s Sparrow-lark
Red-rumped Swallow
Lesser Striped Swallow
Rock Martin
Cape Robin-chat
Capped Wheatear
Schalow’s Wheatear
White-browed Scrub Robin
Spotted Morning Thrush
Yellow-bellied Eremomela
Brown Parisoma
Tiny Cisticola
Grey Flycatcher
Northern Pied Babbler
Abyssinian White-eye
Bronze Sunbird
Beautiful Sunbird
Variable Sunbird
Eastern Violet-backed Sunbird
Common Fiscal
Grey-backed Fiscal
Brown-crowned Tchagra
Fork-tailed Drongo
Cape Rook
Pied Crow
Grey-capped Social Weaver
Vitelline Masked Weaver
Black-necked Weaver
Cardinal Quelea
Green-winged Pytilia
Eastern Paradise Whydah