From: Brian Finch <birdfinch@gmail.com>
Date: 2008-11-27 19:34
Subject: Central Kenya 12th-26th November 2008

Dear All,

I have just finished a Wings tour of Central Kenya with Edwin 
Selempo. Whilst there was a good variety in the region generally 
migrant raptors and passerines were poorly represented for the time 
of year. I have given a fairly detailed outline of palearctic 
presence in each of the areas visited. Most areas had received some 
rain, but it varied considerably and we were not impeded anywhere 
except not being able to get up to the Met Station at Naro Moru, 
Interestingly whilst Lesser Striped Swallows have returned to 
Nairobi, they are still absent from the Mara. The only Palm Swifts 
for the tour were all in Nairobi, and I have noticed this on previous 
years. For the third successive year we were unable to find any 
Caspian Plovers in Mara or Amboseli, areas that in past years held 
substantial quantities, and the decline has been so rapid. Maybe we 
should be reporting all records of Caspian Plovers from now on. 

On 12th November 2008 we were in Nairobi National Park from 10-00 am 
until dusk. It was dry though some areas were rather muddy. A single 
Saddle-billed Stork was flying over Ivory Burning Site, Athi Dam was 
quite full and a good number of waterbirds have moved in including a 
Squacco, three Little Egrets, 12 Pink-backed Pelicans, 20 Long-tailed 
Cormorants, migrant waders were very poor with merely six Marsh and 
one Common Sandpiper, two Greenshank a single Little Stint and a 
Ruff. Five Black-crowned Night-Herons were roosting on the causeway.
Migrant raptors were poorly represented with only two Pallid Harriers 
and one Common Buzzard. The amazing immature Augur Buzzard with the 
Booted Eagle-like headlights was near the Burning Site.  Bustards 
were prominent and included a single displaying Black-bellied in Athi 
Basin, and three African Water Rails were at Hyena Dam. Only six 
Eurasian Bee-eaters were recorded, one Red-tailed Shrike, a mere 25 
Barn Swallows, (five Lesser Stripeds), a Sedge Warbler singing at 
Hyena Dam, one Willow Warbler (!), three Northern and one Pied 
Wheatear, one Whinchat, two Spotted Flycatchers, and two Red-throated 
Pipits.
There was a Red-faced Cisticola singing at the Hippo Pools, and on 
the East Gate road as we were about to leave we found an impressive 
roost of over 200 Banded Martins in rank grass.

The 13th November once we had finally broken away from the traffic 
clutches of Nairobi, we had a short look at Lukenya. The place was 
fairly green with new grass, in the time we were there the only 
migrant was a single Spotted Flycatcher! Southern Grosbeak Canarys 
were noisy and singing, however the best bird was a Bush Pipit. This 
is the second time I have recorded the species there at the same time 
of year. Quite a different time to their May-June appearance around 
the Ngongs. At Hunter's Lodge the Black-headed Herons were nest-
building in numbers and African Golden Weavers were also engaged in 
the same activity.
At Mtito Andei Gate there were a few Spotted Flycatchers, also there 
was a lone Vulturine Guineafowl here, and a pair of Black-bellied 
Sunbirds. Driving towards Ngulia we had a single Amur Falcon, three 
Eurasian amongst an assemblage of four nightjar species, five 
Eurasian Rollers, and a Broad-billed right out in the plains.

Even with a little mist overnight the morning of 14th November 
revealed at Ngulia, a migrant-free zone. In the bushes were a 
Sprosser, a Marsh Warbler, a couple of Whitethroats and one each of 
Red-backed and Red-tailed Shrikes. Descending the mountain to the 
commiphora we located five Amur Falcons, a Steppe Eagle, over 200 
Common Swift, two Eurasian Rollers, one Red-backed and five Red-
tailed Shrikes, only thirty Barn Swallows, two each of Marsh and 
Upcher's, and one each of Olivaceous and Willow Warblers, three 
Whitethroat, two Iranias and some thirty Spotted Flycatchers.
As always at this time of year small numbers of Madagascar Bee-eaters 
were present in full breeding plumage. On every one of twelve random 
stops along the road after the airstrip towards Tsavo Gate, there 
were Red-naped Bush-shrikes, three being seen exceptionally well, and 
Pale Prinias appear to be still increasing.
In the evening three Eurasian Nightjars plus one in the restaurant, 
and near the Hippo Pools there was a male Somali Ostrich associating 
with a few Maasai Ostrich.

Another misty night but with full moon, revealed no migrants to 
excite us as we sat down to breakfast on the 15th November. There was 
a single Honey Buzzard as we proceeded to Chyulu Gate, otherwise two 
Steppe Eagles completed the migrant raptors in Tsavo West. Remaining 
palearctics were  three Eurasian Rollers, one Red-backed and four Red-
tailed Shrikes, single Marsh and Olivaceous and five Willow Warblers, 
two Whitethroat, single Barred Warbler and Sprosser and three 
Eurasian Rock Thrush. However at least fifty Spotted Flycatchers were 
seen during the day.
At Chyulu Gate there were a couple of Nightingales, and the usual 
Black-headed Batis. and equally reliable Black-bellied Sunbirds.  
Whilst on the plains two Northern and one Isabelline Wheatears.
The acacia woodland near Kimana again provided us with Brown-hooded 
Kingfisher, and a pair each of Grey-olive Greenbuls and Black-
throated Wattle-eyes. The usual pair of White-fronted Bee-eaters were 
also present, (which is just as well as in two days in Nakuru we 
never encountered the species, nor along the start of the Baringo 
Road, or the section from Subukia to Nakuru, all of which held 
reasonable numbers in the past). There were several each of Willow 
Warblers and Nightingales.
On arrival at Amboseli we witnessed the tail-end of a roosting 
movement of Amur Falcons, and still recorded over 700 heading towards 
Mt Kilimanjaro. Interestingly there were no other species associating 
with them, although an adult Sooty Falcon was seen nearby.

Amboseli was magical on 16th November, but Ol Tukai Lodge was not a 
migrant trap as in the past, apart from some very nice Taveta Golden 
Weavers, it did have a really extravert Nightingale, but other than 
that only a few Spotted Flycatchers. On our drives we picked up a 
single Lesser Kestrel, 25 Amur Falcons, one Sooty Falcon and six 
Northern Hobbys, five Eurasian Marsh, two Pallid and ten Montagu's 
Harriers, a single Eurasian Cuckoo, three Red-tailed Shrikes, and 
only one Willow Warbler, however in the plains at least thirty 
Isabelline and one Northern Wheatear, one Eurasian Rock Thrush, six 
Spotted Flycatchers in the scrub, and a mere eight Yellow Wagtails 
around the swamps.
A surprise find near "Smelly Bridge" was a sub-adult Rufous-bellied 
Heron, personally my first east of the Rift, there were also two 
Black Herons nearby. Towards the Main Gate there were at least a 
dozen White-headed Mousebirds, whilst the short grass had singing 
Singing Bush-Larks and the usual Short-tailed and Athi Short-toed. 
There were eight lark-species along this section of the road.
The causeway swamp is starting to look good. Large numbers of 
waterbirds included a Painted-snipe, and about twenty-five each of 
both Flamingos. A good variety of migrant waders included small 
numbers of Ringed Plovers and Curlew Sandpipers, but over 300 Ruff. 
Terns were feeding with three Gull-billed but at least 25 Whiskered 
and 75 White-winged Black. There were over 1000 Collared Pratincoles 
on the edge of the swamps, in a compact flock. As they fed low over 
the grassland we checked as many as we could but all appeared to have 
chestnut underwing coverts. There were some ten Common Snipe standing 
openly in the short marsh grass.

On the 17th November we flew to Nanyuki, but had a look at the 
Causeway on leaving Ol Tukai, there was an Eleonora's Falcon flying 
around, and single Eurasian Marsh and Montagu's Harriers. 
At Mountain Lodge apart from a Common Buzzard and four Blackcaps that 
was almost it for palearctics. Pride of place here went to a pair of 
Bat Hawks which came out very early after an afternoon downpour and 
continued to fly over the area for a couple of hours, though did not 
appear to be catching anything or indeed hunting. There was a mass 
fruiting near the lodge attracting large numbers of Eastern Bronze-
naped Pigeons, Red-fronted Parrots and Waller's and Sharpe's 
Starlings, but not Silvery-cheeked Hornbills or Olive Pigeons both of 
which were very scarce. The showers brought down some 200 Scarce 
Swift with 25 Alpine with them, as well as six House Martins.

Our planned excursion up to the Met Station at Naro Moru on 18th, was 
thwarted by the heavy rain which made the trail impassable for our 
vehicle. We contented ourselves walking from the gate for a short 
distance. There were a few bush birds including an early (?) 
Chiffchaff which surprised us by being very attracted to its contact 
call playback. The only other migrants were a couple of Common 
Buzzards and a Northern Wheatear, whilst back at the lodge, about 25 
Common Swift, a few each of Barn Swallow, House Martin, six Tree 
Pipits, several Blackcaps and a Eurasian Reed Warbler. Sadly no sign 
of the Bat Hawks. Over twenty Green Sandpipers came in to roost on 
the pond at night.

After a dry night it was an extremely clear morning on 19th November, 
and the mountain appeared to have a good coat of snow. The only bird 
from the lodge of any interest were four Oriole Finches. We proceeded 
slowly towards Naro Moru River Lodge. The only migrant raptor being a 
Common Buzzard, with a handful of Blackcaps, one Willow Warbler and 
four Tree Pipits, but on Solio Plains in the afternoon we had about 
450 White Storks fall out of the sky to feed on the grasslands, two 
Lesser, one Eurasian Kestrel and four Northern Hobbys, two Pallid and 
four Montagu's Harriers, one Eurasian Bee-eater, over 100 Barn 
Swallows with two Sand Martins and six House Martins, 
There was a group of 75 Crowned Cranes feeding together, rather odd 
as elsewhere they are paired. At dusk a compact group of some thirty 
small larks flew up and crossed the road to disappear in the paddock. 
Their tight grouping and unfamiliar twittering warbles were 
unfamiliar to me, and there is a remote possibility that they may 
have been Greater Short-toed Larks, so keep an eye open for them when 
crossing from Naro Moru to Mweiga. Along the fence were two each of 
Northern and Isabelline Wheatears and about sixty Yellow Wagtails 
with one Red-throated Pipit.

Another dry night, at Naro Moru River Lodge. On 20th there was one 
Black Duck on the river and Brown-backed Scrub-Robins sang from 
territories on the other side of the river. On Solio Plains only 
fifteen White Stork were left, the falcons were as the previous 
evening, all three harriers were present in small numbers, on the 
fence were four Eurasian Bee-eaters, there were two Angola Swallows 
disassociating themselves from some 250 Barn Swallows, a search 
failed to reveal any strange lark flock, but I did photograph one 
bird which has me puzzled and was on the periphery of a group of Red-
capped Larks, but not like the tricky immatures of that species, I 
will pass the image around to interested parties. Also four 
Whinchats, four each of Northern and Isabelline Wheatears, seventy 
Yellow Wagtails, 
Near Ndaragwa a Black Stork flew over, there was a Grey Wagtail on 
the river, and at the Nyahururu dam were ten House Martins, but that 
was about it apart from the usual residents. We continued on to 
Baringo.

Another beautiful morning on the 21st November when we stepped out 
into the garden at Baringo Lodge in the early morning. The air was 
full of bird song, but the trees had barely a migrant, and the lake 
was so high that virtually only bush birds were visible from the 
jetty. At long last a Northern White-faced Scops-Owl has moved back, 
and is in the car park. There were six Eurasian Bee-eaters along the 
road but no Blue-cheeks, this is another bird I am convinced is much 
scarcer nowadays, a stunning male Eurasian Golden Oriole feeding on 
the ground (!) in the scrub, was the only member of this species 
encountered on the tour, the lakeside had some 200 Barn Swallows but 
only two Sand Martins, in he acacias there were about six Olivaceous 
and one Upcher's Warbler, but only two Willow Warblers, and one each 
of Northern and Isabelline Wheatears and a Eurasian Rock Thrush. 
There was a small pool just after Loruk where estrildids were coming 
to drink. Amongst these was a small black-faced immature but 
otherwise plain whydah. I have seen this plumage only once before, on 
the Magadi Road, and put it down to an immature plumage of Steel-blue 
Whydah. I suppose to the Black-cheeked Waxbills that would raise it, 
the black face would make it look more like one of their own! Has 
anyone else seen this strange plumage? I took some video of it 
drinking.
We did our usual run of the local specialities with the local 
enthusiastic assistance, the highlight personally was being shown a 
Scops Owl near the airfield. Although we have many photos and video 
of this bird at close quarters, it is not possible to state that it 
is African or Eurasian. It is certainly a very white individual, 
whiter and paler grey than I am used to. It will take some research.
In the evening we were at the mouth of the Njoro River in Nakuru. 
There were four winter adult Black-headed Gulls amongst the large 
Grey-headed Gull flock, as well as two Lesser Black-backed Gulls. 
There was an extraordinary very compact group of over two-hundred 
Pied Avocets, and six Black-tailed Godwits flew by. At Hippo Picnic 
Site were two Eurasian Marsh Harriers, and lots of birds that we 
would take in at leisure the next day.
Whilst driving to Lion Hill, fifteen White Stork were found roosting 
in the trees, likewise two Steppe Eagles.

The 22nd November was a fine morning, and on visiting the lake edge 
at Nakuru we were greeted by an awful lot of birds. The flamingos 
were in good numbers, but there must have been something in the 
region of 2000 Greaters, they were all around the lake. Only two 
weeks before I was there late morning when Mike Davidson took a group 
of us up for the day, the numbers were reported as followsÂ…. "At the 
mouth of the Njoro River (Home of the Cormorants) amongst the Grey-
headed Gull flock, there were three Lesser Black-backed, all of 
different ages, three adult Black-headed Gulls and a single Skimmer. 
White-winged Black Terns were not in very large numbers, there were a 
number of Gull-billed in non-breeding dress, and Whiskered in full 
breeding and non-breeding plumage. Waders were restricted to good 
numbers of Ruff, difficult to count in the tall grasses, small 
numbers of Little Stints, Marsh Sandpipers, Greenshank and Ringed 
Plover, but nothing out of the ordinary and many species not recorded 
at all."
Admittedly we covered much more of the lake on this occasion, but the 
difference was an amazing change over this short periodÂ….. it was 
dripping in waders and we estimated staggering numbers of 20,000 each 
of Ruff and Little Stints, 5000 Black-winged Stilts, (are these 
palearctic?), a very compact group of now 300 Avocets, and none 
anywhere else on the lake, 40 Ringed Plover (undoubtedly 
underestimated), over 100 Marsh Sandpipers, 40 Greenshank, in spite 
of these good numbers there were a paltry four Curlew Sandpipers!
Amongst the large numbers of birds at the mouth of the Njoro River 
were eight White and a single Woolly-necked Stork, I cannot recall 
having seen them in Nakuru before, there were five Steppe Eagles 
along the Njoro, scanning the gull flock we found a few Black-headed 
Gulls, two Lesser Black-backed Gulls. Not to be outdone, tern figures 
were recorded as Gull-billed 400, Whiskered 300, White-winged Black 
750, but sadly no unusual relatives with them.
Little Grebes numbered over 1000, and although we recorded 100 Black-
necked Grebes there were probably many more in the lake shimmer.
At Hippo Picnic Site there were so many birds, but no really uncommon 
species, an adult Black Stork was resting along the creek, during the 
day about ten Eurasian Marsh Harriers were seen, but strangely only 
one Montagu's. My first Temminck's Stint of the season was here. 
Swallows were abundant with 5000 Barn, five House Martins and thirty 
Sand Martins. Nearby there were four displaying black-bellied 
nominate White-headed Barbets in the acacias. I really have no 
recollection of seeing these here before.
Muya's Causeway was very disappointing, although a very attractive 
hybrid Spur-winged/Blacksmith Plover was here looking as if it should 
be a species in its own right!
On the sewage lagoons were 500 Northern Shoveler and three Northern 
Pintail, but strangely Garganey were not seen on the whole safari.  
It looks like Great Cormorants are going to start a colony here, as 
there were well over 500 in the trees.
At the southern end of the lake was our only Cape Wigeon of the day, 
and amongst the waders there and staying together were two 
Sanderlings.
At the base of Leopard Cliffs (near the junction) a noisy Pallid 
Honeyguide had a territory in a tall acacia, certainly the first I 
have seen in Nakuru and maybe the first I have seen in an acacia!
Land palearctics were pathetic, one Eurasian Roller, ten Eurasian Bee-
eaters, one Red-backed Shrike, three Willow Warblers, five Tree Pipit 
but perhaps the most surprising only ten Yellow Wagtails.

On the 23rd November we were to have our long drive to the Mara, but 
on the way out checked out the mouth of the Njoro to say a fond 
farewell to the flamingos and pelicans that had been such a prominent 
feature in our binoculars over the past day.
Birds were much the same as yesterday, with the addition of four Cape 
Wigeon and a Northern Hobby, and we scanned through the gull flock, 
three Black-headed and two Lesser Black-backs, but the gull prize was 
a splendid Slender-billed Gull with an orange-yellow bill to make it 
even more conspicuous. If this wasn't enough, when the pelicans 
stepped to one side another shocker, an immature Black-winged 
Pratincole was on the foreshore!!! Then an awaited Little Ringed 
Plover along the river. It was time to leave. 
Taking the voluntary detour through Molo we came across a very nice 
swamp with many Levaillant's Cisticolas, and there was a Eurasian 
Marsh Harrier and two Common Buzzards here. There was nothing much of 
note at the Arboretum at Chagaik, ten Willow Warblers, four 
Blackcaps, eight Tree Pipits and a Grey Wagtail. The most amazing 
sight here were lots of picnickers, outside church service, and 
Sunday spooning couples with a pair of Crowned Cranes and their two 
chicks striding across the lawn as if they weren't there, and no-one 
disturbed the cranes. Finally we reached the Mara.

A little after dawn on 24th November we were birding on the lawns of 
Kichwa Tembo. There were a lot of busy birds, and we had a good 
variety, the Red-capped Robin Chat is still in residence. Two Green-
backed Twinspots were feeding in a seeding bush. For palearctics, we 
only had two Blackcaps, and a few Willow Warblers.
On the Oloololo Escarpment we located the local speciality residents, 
and there were also five Common Buzzards, one Lesser Spotted and 
fifteen Steppe Eagles, and one Eurasian Bee-eater, 
On the top of the escarpment was the first Buff-bellied Penduline Tit 
that I have seen in the western Mara, also here were two Garden 
Warblers.
Near Oloololo Gate we had the only two Harlequin Quail of the trip, 
one Red-tailed Shrike, three Yellow Wagtails and three Parasitic 
Weavers not a common bird here. From here we continued on to the 
Serena Oxbows. The creation of the raised road has caused some 
damming resulting in shallow short-grass swamp. We flushed a bird 
that looked very orange, and as the bird landed had a good look at 
it. Initially I thought it a colourful Zitting Cisticola, but on 
closed examination of this exquisitely patterned bird, could see that 
it was in fact a Black-backed Cisticola. We took numerous photos and 
video. Whilst watching the bird it started to sing, and behaved as if 
on territory, however it was not a fully adult male as it lacked an 
all chestnut crown, the top of the head was positively scaly as 
opposed to streaked. The unstreaked rufous collar was conspicuous, 
both rump and extensively on the flanks were very orangish, the 
underparts were white but the throat whiter still. Supercilium 
strong, with broad pale ring around the eyes giving a heavy lidded 
look. The back was as intricately and complexly marked as I have ever 
seen on a Cisticola. This bird seems happy on its territory, and was 
in the same place when we returned an hour later. This locality is 
very easy to find, drive through Oloololo Gate, and continue along 
the road over a bridge to the first main road that goes off left 
towards the river. From here it is six kilometres to the site. 
Immediately to the left along the river there is a huge fig with its 
basal right hand eroded away. Just on the left there is a drainage 
ditch, and the bird is around this area.

The 25th November we again birded the grounds of Kichwa Tembo after 
dawn, there was an Ashy Flycatcher incubating on its nest in a crack 
by the doorway in the rondavel I was staying in. I have never heard 
of them nesting in buildings before. There was a good variety around 
the grounds, which included three Willow Warblers, a couple of 
Blackcaps, whilst Tree Pipits and Yellow Wagtails were flying over. A 
pair of Green-headed Sunbirds were an unusual species in the Mara.
In the Musiara thornscrub there were fourteen Senegal Plovers, one 
pair with two flying young, and three Abdim's Storks overhead.
At Musiara Swamp it was difficult to get to the edge and we only 
found one Rufous-bellied Heron, the real surprise here was an adult 
Egyptian Vulture the first I have seen in the Mara for very many 
years. There was a single Eurasian Bee-eater.
On the plains across to Fig Tree there were two Lesser and one 
Eurasian Kestrels, two Montagu's Harriers, a Common Buzzard, four 
Steppe Eagles, a Eurasian Roller, several White-tailed Larks, there 
were some 25 Northern Wheatears scattered around, but only two 
Isabelline Wheatears.
After Talek Gate where we found out first Spotted Flycatcher since 
leaving Amboseli!!!!!, we had a family group of Buffy Pipits, two 
adults and two young. I took some photographs of the young birds 
because their backs were neatly blotched rather than plain. Not much 
farther along the road we found an immature Athi Short-toed Lark all 
on its own, it really had us puzzled, I took some images as it looked 
very strange, but when flushed by an oncoming vehicle called quite 
normally as it took off.
I had received an SMS from Joseph Chege about the Rufous-tailed 
Weavers and Black-billed Barbets on the road at the back of the KWS 
Research Station towards Keekerok, we took the road and followed up 
and over a range of hills. It was a beautiful area that neither Edwin 
or myself had visited. There were large numbers of Sooty and Anteater 
Chats side by side, five Whinchats, numerous Flappet Larks, and two 
separate Buttonquails posing for us on the road. Not surprisingly we 
found five Magpie Shrikes, which are probably in lots of hidden 
valleys in this south-eastern corner, in some rank grass there was a 
compact group of thirty out-of plumage Yellow-mantled Widowbirds.
After dinner we had a night game drive organised by Siana Springs, 
the only birds were a couple of very close Dusky Nightjars and a 
surprised Northern Wheatear, but the mammals were very nice with 
White-tailed Mongooses, Common Genets, a wonderful Zorilla standing 
its ground against a domestic dog with tail arched over its back, 
Lesser Bushbabies, Spring Hares, an unidentified rodent to be sorted 
out. It is $50 p/p but I think worth the expense, and the hot 
chocolate in the bush is almost worth that!

The 26th we had a look in the Siana Valley. Evidently there had been 
an arrival, there were one each of Common Buzzard and Steppe Eagle, a 
flock of 75 House Martins fed low over the scrub, there were about 
forty Willow Warblers, one adult Icterine Warbler is not a surprise 
for here, and one Garden Warbler, one each of Northern and Pied 
Wheatears, a Nightingale, an Eurasian Rock Thrush and four Spotted 
Flycatchers. 
Additionally there were five Magpie Shrikes that like all of the 
migrants came in to mob a Pearl-spotted Owlet.