From: Brian Finch <birdfinch@gmail.com>
Date: 2008-11-27 19:34
Subject: Central Kenya 12th-26th November 2008
Dear All,
I have just finished a Wings tour of Central Kenya with Edwin
Selempo. Whilst there was a good variety in the region generally
migrant raptors and passerines were poorly represented for the time
of year. I have given a fairly detailed outline of palearctic
presence in each of the areas visited. Most areas had received some
rain, but it varied considerably and we were not impeded anywhere
except not being able to get up to the Met Station at Naro Moru,
Interestingly whilst Lesser Striped Swallows have returned to
Nairobi, they are still absent from the Mara. The only Palm Swifts
for the tour were all in Nairobi, and I have noticed this on previous
years. For the third successive year we were unable to find any
Caspian Plovers in Mara or Amboseli, areas that in past years held
substantial quantities, and the decline has been so rapid. Maybe we
should be reporting all records of Caspian Plovers from now on.
On 12th November 2008 we were in Nairobi National Park from 10-00 am
until dusk. It was dry though some areas were rather muddy. A single
Saddle-billed Stork was flying over Ivory Burning Site, Athi Dam was
quite full and a good number of waterbirds have moved in including a
Squacco, three Little Egrets, 12 Pink-backed Pelicans, 20 Long-tailed
Cormorants, migrant waders were very poor with merely six Marsh and
one Common Sandpiper, two Greenshank a single Little Stint and a
Ruff. Five Black-crowned Night-Herons were roosting on the causeway.
Migrant raptors were poorly represented with only two Pallid Harriers
and one Common Buzzard. The amazing immature Augur Buzzard with the
Booted Eagle-like headlights was near the Burning Site. Bustards
were prominent and included a single displaying Black-bellied in Athi
Basin, and three African Water Rails were at Hyena Dam. Only six
Eurasian Bee-eaters were recorded, one Red-tailed Shrike, a mere 25
Barn Swallows, (five Lesser Stripeds), a Sedge Warbler singing at
Hyena Dam, one Willow Warbler (!), three Northern and one Pied
Wheatear, one Whinchat, two Spotted Flycatchers, and two Red-throated
Pipits.
There was a Red-faced Cisticola singing at the Hippo Pools, and on
the East Gate road as we were about to leave we found an impressive
roost of over 200 Banded Martins in rank grass.
The 13th November once we had finally broken away from the traffic
clutches of Nairobi, we had a short look at Lukenya. The place was
fairly green with new grass, in the time we were there the only
migrant was a single Spotted Flycatcher! Southern Grosbeak Canarys
were noisy and singing, however the best bird was a Bush Pipit. This
is the second time I have recorded the species there at the same time
of year. Quite a different time to their May-June appearance around
the Ngongs. At Hunter's Lodge the Black-headed Herons were nest-
building in numbers and African Golden Weavers were also engaged in
the same activity.
At Mtito Andei Gate there were a few Spotted Flycatchers, also there
was a lone Vulturine Guineafowl here, and a pair of Black-bellied
Sunbirds. Driving towards Ngulia we had a single Amur Falcon, three
Eurasian amongst an assemblage of four nightjar species, five
Eurasian Rollers, and a Broad-billed right out in the plains.
Even with a little mist overnight the morning of 14th November
revealed at Ngulia, a migrant-free zone. In the bushes were a
Sprosser, a Marsh Warbler, a couple of Whitethroats and one each of
Red-backed and Red-tailed Shrikes. Descending the mountain to the
commiphora we located five Amur Falcons, a Steppe Eagle, over 200
Common Swift, two Eurasian Rollers, one Red-backed and five Red-
tailed Shrikes, only thirty Barn Swallows, two each of Marsh and
Upcher's, and one each of Olivaceous and Willow Warblers, three
Whitethroat, two Iranias and some thirty Spotted Flycatchers.
As always at this time of year small numbers of Madagascar Bee-eaters
were present in full breeding plumage. On every one of twelve random
stops along the road after the airstrip towards Tsavo Gate, there
were Red-naped Bush-shrikes, three being seen exceptionally well, and
Pale Prinias appear to be still increasing.
In the evening three Eurasian Nightjars plus one in the restaurant,
and near the Hippo Pools there was a male Somali Ostrich associating
with a few Maasai Ostrich.
Another misty night but with full moon, revealed no migrants to
excite us as we sat down to breakfast on the 15th November. There was
a single Honey Buzzard as we proceeded to Chyulu Gate, otherwise two
Steppe Eagles completed the migrant raptors in Tsavo West. Remaining
palearctics were three Eurasian Rollers, one Red-backed and four Red-
tailed Shrikes, single Marsh and Olivaceous and five Willow Warblers,
two Whitethroat, single Barred Warbler and Sprosser and three
Eurasian Rock Thrush. However at least fifty Spotted Flycatchers were
seen during the day.
At Chyulu Gate there were a couple of Nightingales, and the usual
Black-headed Batis. and equally reliable Black-bellied Sunbirds.
Whilst on the plains two Northern and one Isabelline Wheatears.
The acacia woodland near Kimana again provided us with Brown-hooded
Kingfisher, and a pair each of Grey-olive Greenbuls and Black-
throated Wattle-eyes. The usual pair of White-fronted Bee-eaters were
also present, (which is just as well as in two days in Nakuru we
never encountered the species, nor along the start of the Baringo
Road, or the section from Subukia to Nakuru, all of which held
reasonable numbers in the past). There were several each of Willow
Warblers and Nightingales.
On arrival at Amboseli we witnessed the tail-end of a roosting
movement of Amur Falcons, and still recorded over 700 heading towards
Mt Kilimanjaro. Interestingly there were no other species associating
with them, although an adult Sooty Falcon was seen nearby.
Amboseli was magical on 16th November, but Ol Tukai Lodge was not a
migrant trap as in the past, apart from some very nice Taveta Golden
Weavers, it did have a really extravert Nightingale, but other than
that only a few Spotted Flycatchers. On our drives we picked up a
single Lesser Kestrel, 25 Amur Falcons, one Sooty Falcon and six
Northern Hobbys, five Eurasian Marsh, two Pallid and ten Montagu's
Harriers, a single Eurasian Cuckoo, three Red-tailed Shrikes, and
only one Willow Warbler, however in the plains at least thirty
Isabelline and one Northern Wheatear, one Eurasian Rock Thrush, six
Spotted Flycatchers in the scrub, and a mere eight Yellow Wagtails
around the swamps.
A surprise find near "Smelly Bridge" was a sub-adult Rufous-bellied
Heron, personally my first east of the Rift, there were also two
Black Herons nearby. Towards the Main Gate there were at least a
dozen White-headed Mousebirds, whilst the short grass had singing
Singing Bush-Larks and the usual Short-tailed and Athi Short-toed.
There were eight lark-species along this section of the road.
The causeway swamp is starting to look good. Large numbers of
waterbirds included a Painted-snipe, and about twenty-five each of
both Flamingos. A good variety of migrant waders included small
numbers of Ringed Plovers and Curlew Sandpipers, but over 300 Ruff.
Terns were feeding with three Gull-billed but at least 25 Whiskered
and 75 White-winged Black. There were over 1000 Collared Pratincoles
on the edge of the swamps, in a compact flock. As they fed low over
the grassland we checked as many as we could but all appeared to have
chestnut underwing coverts. There were some ten Common Snipe standing
openly in the short marsh grass.
On the 17th November we flew to Nanyuki, but had a look at the
Causeway on leaving Ol Tukai, there was an Eleonora's Falcon flying
around, and single Eurasian Marsh and Montagu's Harriers.
At Mountain Lodge apart from a Common Buzzard and four Blackcaps that
was almost it for palearctics. Pride of place here went to a pair of
Bat Hawks which came out very early after an afternoon downpour and
continued to fly over the area for a couple of hours, though did not
appear to be catching anything or indeed hunting. There was a mass
fruiting near the lodge attracting large numbers of Eastern Bronze-
naped Pigeons, Red-fronted Parrots and Waller's and Sharpe's
Starlings, but not Silvery-cheeked Hornbills or Olive Pigeons both of
which were very scarce. The showers brought down some 200 Scarce
Swift with 25 Alpine with them, as well as six House Martins.
Our planned excursion up to the Met Station at Naro Moru on 18th, was
thwarted by the heavy rain which made the trail impassable for our
vehicle. We contented ourselves walking from the gate for a short
distance. There were a few bush birds including an early (?)
Chiffchaff which surprised us by being very attracted to its contact
call playback. The only other migrants were a couple of Common
Buzzards and a Northern Wheatear, whilst back at the lodge, about 25
Common Swift, a few each of Barn Swallow, House Martin, six Tree
Pipits, several Blackcaps and a Eurasian Reed Warbler. Sadly no sign
of the Bat Hawks. Over twenty Green Sandpipers came in to roost on
the pond at night.
After a dry night it was an extremely clear morning on 19th November,
and the mountain appeared to have a good coat of snow. The only bird
from the lodge of any interest were four Oriole Finches. We proceeded
slowly towards Naro Moru River Lodge. The only migrant raptor being a
Common Buzzard, with a handful of Blackcaps, one Willow Warbler and
four Tree Pipits, but on Solio Plains in the afternoon we had about
450 White Storks fall out of the sky to feed on the grasslands, two
Lesser, one Eurasian Kestrel and four Northern Hobbys, two Pallid and
four Montagu's Harriers, one Eurasian Bee-eater, over 100 Barn
Swallows with two Sand Martins and six House Martins,
There was a group of 75 Crowned Cranes feeding together, rather odd
as elsewhere they are paired. At dusk a compact group of some thirty
small larks flew up and crossed the road to disappear in the paddock.
Their tight grouping and unfamiliar twittering warbles were
unfamiliar to me, and there is a remote possibility that they may
have been Greater Short-toed Larks, so keep an eye open for them when
crossing from Naro Moru to Mweiga. Along the fence were two each of
Northern and Isabelline Wheatears and about sixty Yellow Wagtails
with one Red-throated Pipit.
Another dry night, at Naro Moru River Lodge. On 20th there was one
Black Duck on the river and Brown-backed Scrub-Robins sang from
territories on the other side of the river. On Solio Plains only
fifteen White Stork were left, the falcons were as the previous
evening, all three harriers were present in small numbers, on the
fence were four Eurasian Bee-eaters, there were two Angola Swallows
disassociating themselves from some 250 Barn Swallows, a search
failed to reveal any strange lark flock, but I did photograph one
bird which has me puzzled and was on the periphery of a group of Red-
capped Larks, but not like the tricky immatures of that species, I
will pass the image around to interested parties. Also four
Whinchats, four each of Northern and Isabelline Wheatears, seventy
Yellow Wagtails,
Near Ndaragwa a Black Stork flew over, there was a Grey Wagtail on
the river, and at the Nyahururu dam were ten House Martins, but that
was about it apart from the usual residents. We continued on to
Baringo.
Another beautiful morning on the 21st November when we stepped out
into the garden at Baringo Lodge in the early morning. The air was
full of bird song, but the trees had barely a migrant, and the lake
was so high that virtually only bush birds were visible from the
jetty. At long last a Northern White-faced Scops-Owl has moved back,
and is in the car park. There were six Eurasian Bee-eaters along the
road but no Blue-cheeks, this is another bird I am convinced is much
scarcer nowadays, a stunning male Eurasian Golden Oriole feeding on
the ground (!) in the scrub, was the only member of this species
encountered on the tour, the lakeside had some 200 Barn Swallows but
only two Sand Martins, in he acacias there were about six Olivaceous
and one Upcher's Warbler, but only two Willow Warblers, and one each
of Northern and Isabelline Wheatears and a Eurasian Rock Thrush.
There was a small pool just after Loruk where estrildids were coming
to drink. Amongst these was a small black-faced immature but
otherwise plain whydah. I have seen this plumage only once before, on
the Magadi Road, and put it down to an immature plumage of Steel-blue
Whydah. I suppose to the Black-cheeked Waxbills that would raise it,
the black face would make it look more like one of their own! Has
anyone else seen this strange plumage? I took some video of it
drinking.
We did our usual run of the local specialities with the local
enthusiastic assistance, the highlight personally was being shown a
Scops Owl near the airfield. Although we have many photos and video
of this bird at close quarters, it is not possible to state that it
is African or Eurasian. It is certainly a very white individual,
whiter and paler grey than I am used to. It will take some research.
In the evening we were at the mouth of the Njoro River in Nakuru.
There were four winter adult Black-headed Gulls amongst the large
Grey-headed Gull flock, as well as two Lesser Black-backed Gulls.
There was an extraordinary very compact group of over two-hundred
Pied Avocets, and six Black-tailed Godwits flew by. At Hippo Picnic
Site were two Eurasian Marsh Harriers, and lots of birds that we
would take in at leisure the next day.
Whilst driving to Lion Hill, fifteen White Stork were found roosting
in the trees, likewise two Steppe Eagles.
The 22nd November was a fine morning, and on visiting the lake edge
at Nakuru we were greeted by an awful lot of birds. The flamingos
were in good numbers, but there must have been something in the
region of 2000 Greaters, they were all around the lake. Only two
weeks before I was there late morning when Mike Davidson took a group
of us up for the day, the numbers were reported as followsÂ…. "At the
mouth of the Njoro River (Home of the Cormorants) amongst the Grey-
headed Gull flock, there were three Lesser Black-backed, all of
different ages, three adult Black-headed Gulls and a single Skimmer.
White-winged Black Terns were not in very large numbers, there were a
number of Gull-billed in non-breeding dress, and Whiskered in full
breeding and non-breeding plumage. Waders were restricted to good
numbers of Ruff, difficult to count in the tall grasses, small
numbers of Little Stints, Marsh Sandpipers, Greenshank and Ringed
Plover, but nothing out of the ordinary and many species not recorded
at all."
Admittedly we covered much more of the lake on this occasion, but the
difference was an amazing change over this short periodÂ….. it was
dripping in waders and we estimated staggering numbers of 20,000 each
of Ruff and Little Stints, 5000 Black-winged Stilts, (are these
palearctic?), a very compact group of now 300 Avocets, and none
anywhere else on the lake, 40 Ringed Plover (undoubtedly
underestimated), over 100 Marsh Sandpipers, 40 Greenshank, in spite
of these good numbers there were a paltry four Curlew Sandpipers!
Amongst the large numbers of birds at the mouth of the Njoro River
were eight White and a single Woolly-necked Stork, I cannot recall
having seen them in Nakuru before, there were five Steppe Eagles
along the Njoro, scanning the gull flock we found a few Black-headed
Gulls, two Lesser Black-backed Gulls. Not to be outdone, tern figures
were recorded as Gull-billed 400, Whiskered 300, White-winged Black
750, but sadly no unusual relatives with them.
Little Grebes numbered over 1000, and although we recorded 100 Black-
necked Grebes there were probably many more in the lake shimmer.
At Hippo Picnic Site there were so many birds, but no really uncommon
species, an adult Black Stork was resting along the creek, during the
day about ten Eurasian Marsh Harriers were seen, but strangely only
one Montagu's. My first Temminck's Stint of the season was here.
Swallows were abundant with 5000 Barn, five House Martins and thirty
Sand Martins. Nearby there were four displaying black-bellied
nominate White-headed Barbets in the acacias. I really have no
recollection of seeing these here before.
Muya's Causeway was very disappointing, although a very attractive
hybrid Spur-winged/Blacksmith Plover was here looking as if it should
be a species in its own right!
On the sewage lagoons were 500 Northern Shoveler and three Northern
Pintail, but strangely Garganey were not seen on the whole safari.
It looks like Great Cormorants are going to start a colony here, as
there were well over 500 in the trees.
At the southern end of the lake was our only Cape Wigeon of the day,
and amongst the waders there and staying together were two
Sanderlings.
At the base of Leopard Cliffs (near the junction) a noisy Pallid
Honeyguide had a territory in a tall acacia, certainly the first I
have seen in Nakuru and maybe the first I have seen in an acacia!
Land palearctics were pathetic, one Eurasian Roller, ten Eurasian Bee-
eaters, one Red-backed Shrike, three Willow Warblers, five Tree Pipit
but perhaps the most surprising only ten Yellow Wagtails.
On the 23rd November we were to have our long drive to the Mara, but
on the way out checked out the mouth of the Njoro to say a fond
farewell to the flamingos and pelicans that had been such a prominent
feature in our binoculars over the past day.
Birds were much the same as yesterday, with the addition of four Cape
Wigeon and a Northern Hobby, and we scanned through the gull flock,
three Black-headed and two Lesser Black-backs, but the gull prize was
a splendid Slender-billed Gull with an orange-yellow bill to make it
even more conspicuous. If this wasn't enough, when the pelicans
stepped to one side another shocker, an immature Black-winged
Pratincole was on the foreshore!!! Then an awaited Little Ringed
Plover along the river. It was time to leave.
Taking the voluntary detour through Molo we came across a very nice
swamp with many Levaillant's Cisticolas, and there was a Eurasian
Marsh Harrier and two Common Buzzards here. There was nothing much of
note at the Arboretum at Chagaik, ten Willow Warblers, four
Blackcaps, eight Tree Pipits and a Grey Wagtail. The most amazing
sight here were lots of picnickers, outside church service, and
Sunday spooning couples with a pair of Crowned Cranes and their two
chicks striding across the lawn as if they weren't there, and no-one
disturbed the cranes. Finally we reached the Mara.
A little after dawn on 24th November we were birding on the lawns of
Kichwa Tembo. There were a lot of busy birds, and we had a good
variety, the Red-capped Robin Chat is still in residence. Two Green-
backed Twinspots were feeding in a seeding bush. For palearctics, we
only had two Blackcaps, and a few Willow Warblers.
On the Oloololo Escarpment we located the local speciality residents,
and there were also five Common Buzzards, one Lesser Spotted and
fifteen Steppe Eagles, and one Eurasian Bee-eater,
On the top of the escarpment was the first Buff-bellied Penduline Tit
that I have seen in the western Mara, also here were two Garden
Warblers.
Near Oloololo Gate we had the only two Harlequin Quail of the trip,
one Red-tailed Shrike, three Yellow Wagtails and three Parasitic
Weavers not a common bird here. From here we continued on to the
Serena Oxbows. The creation of the raised road has caused some
damming resulting in shallow short-grass swamp. We flushed a bird
that looked very orange, and as the bird landed had a good look at
it. Initially I thought it a colourful Zitting Cisticola, but on
closed examination of this exquisitely patterned bird, could see that
it was in fact a Black-backed Cisticola. We took numerous photos and
video. Whilst watching the bird it started to sing, and behaved as if
on territory, however it was not a fully adult male as it lacked an
all chestnut crown, the top of the head was positively scaly as
opposed to streaked. The unstreaked rufous collar was conspicuous,
both rump and extensively on the flanks were very orangish, the
underparts were white but the throat whiter still. Supercilium
strong, with broad pale ring around the eyes giving a heavy lidded
look. The back was as intricately and complexly marked as I have ever
seen on a Cisticola. This bird seems happy on its territory, and was
in the same place when we returned an hour later. This locality is
very easy to find, drive through Oloololo Gate, and continue along
the road over a bridge to the first main road that goes off left
towards the river. From here it is six kilometres to the site.
Immediately to the left along the river there is a huge fig with its
basal right hand eroded away. Just on the left there is a drainage
ditch, and the bird is around this area.
The 25th November we again birded the grounds of Kichwa Tembo after
dawn, there was an Ashy Flycatcher incubating on its nest in a crack
by the doorway in the rondavel I was staying in. I have never heard
of them nesting in buildings before. There was a good variety around
the grounds, which included three Willow Warblers, a couple of
Blackcaps, whilst Tree Pipits and Yellow Wagtails were flying over. A
pair of Green-headed Sunbirds were an unusual species in the Mara.
In the Musiara thornscrub there were fourteen Senegal Plovers, one
pair with two flying young, and three Abdim's Storks overhead.
At Musiara Swamp it was difficult to get to the edge and we only
found one Rufous-bellied Heron, the real surprise here was an adult
Egyptian Vulture the first I have seen in the Mara for very many
years. There was a single Eurasian Bee-eater.
On the plains across to Fig Tree there were two Lesser and one
Eurasian Kestrels, two Montagu's Harriers, a Common Buzzard, four
Steppe Eagles, a Eurasian Roller, several White-tailed Larks, there
were some 25 Northern Wheatears scattered around, but only two
Isabelline Wheatears.
After Talek Gate where we found out first Spotted Flycatcher since
leaving Amboseli!!!!!, we had a family group of Buffy Pipits, two
adults and two young. I took some photographs of the young birds
because their backs were neatly blotched rather than plain. Not much
farther along the road we found an immature Athi Short-toed Lark all
on its own, it really had us puzzled, I took some images as it looked
very strange, but when flushed by an oncoming vehicle called quite
normally as it took off.
I had received an SMS from Joseph Chege about the Rufous-tailed
Weavers and Black-billed Barbets on the road at the back of the KWS
Research Station towards Keekerok, we took the road and followed up
and over a range of hills. It was a beautiful area that neither Edwin
or myself had visited. There were large numbers of Sooty and Anteater
Chats side by side, five Whinchats, numerous Flappet Larks, and two
separate Buttonquails posing for us on the road. Not surprisingly we
found five Magpie Shrikes, which are probably in lots of hidden
valleys in this south-eastern corner, in some rank grass there was a
compact group of thirty out-of plumage Yellow-mantled Widowbirds.
After dinner we had a night game drive organised by Siana Springs,
the only birds were a couple of very close Dusky Nightjars and a
surprised Northern Wheatear, but the mammals were very nice with
White-tailed Mongooses, Common Genets, a wonderful Zorilla standing
its ground against a domestic dog with tail arched over its back,
Lesser Bushbabies, Spring Hares, an unidentified rodent to be sorted
out. It is $50 p/p but I think worth the expense, and the hot
chocolate in the bush is almost worth that!
The 26th we had a look in the Siana Valley. Evidently there had been
an arrival, there were one each of Common Buzzard and Steppe Eagle, a
flock of 75 House Martins fed low over the scrub, there were about
forty Willow Warblers, one adult Icterine Warbler is not a surprise
for here, and one Garden Warbler, one each of Northern and Pied
Wheatears, a Nightingale, an Eurasian Rock Thrush and four Spotted
Flycatchers.
Additionally there were five Magpie Shrikes that like all of the
migrants came in to mob a Pearl-spotted Owlet.