Dear All,

I have just finished a 26 day birding safari for Rockjumper (the 
South African bird tour company) co-leading with David Hoddinott, 
and expertly co-ordinated by our own Ben Mugambi and his staff. 
Apart from the clients it was a 100% all African team. The group 
numbering twelve with two leaders contained several pairs of the 
sharpest eyes I have ever encountered in my life. 

I was asked to put together a tour that would give us a chance of 
800 species, and remove the Birdquest current title for the tour I 
led for them over ten years ago when we had an exceptional November 
passage. 

The tour started on 9th April and finished on 4th May, this would 
seem rather late for the migrants heading north, and too early for 
the Afrotropicals to react to the long rains. In fact because of 
these factors tours do not run in this period, and of course there 
is always a chance of being caught out in the rains.

We had to sacrifice some migrants, and as a consequence we did not 
encounter any palearctic ducks, Grasshopper Buzzard, Pallid or 
Montagu's Harrier, Booted Eagle, Osprey, Eleonora's Falcon, Little 
Ringed Plover, Temminck's Stint, Common Snipe, Broad-billed 
Sandpiper, Bar-tailed Godwit, Spotted Redshank, Blue-cheeked Bee-
eater, Tree Pipit, Grey or White Wagtails, Rufous Bush-Chat, Irania, 
Isabelline or Pied Wheatears, Icterine, Olive-Tree or Barred 
Warblers, Blackcap, and Mangrove Kingfisher together with Red-capped 
Robin Chat had deserted their coastal retreats. Between November and 
March virtually all of these 25+ species would have been reasonably 
expected.

The strange weather conditions that were prevalent in March, 
removing waterbirds from the country was still in evidence, and 
during the period there was no sign of Pink-backed Pelican, African 
Darter or Spurwing Goose, Allen's Gallinule, Purple Swamphen, 
African Skimmer or either of the other Grebes.

As with all tours some surprisingly common or normally reliable 
species secluded themselves mysteriously, amongst these we failed to 
find Greater Kestrel, Kittlitz's Plover, Barn, Marsh and Spotted 
Eagle Owls, Fine-banded Woodpecker, White-tailed Lark and Grey-
headed Silverbill.

Then finally there are the species that do not show up in the 
limited time available within their range and there are far too many 
of these to list here.

The late short rains had brought breeding into play earlier than 
normal, and we saw so very many species feeding flying young, this 
meant that virtually throughout, very little was singing, and little 
responded territorially. In all, conditions appeared far from 
perfect. On the other hand because they had young to feed, birds 
were active for much of the day and this meant more visual activity 
than would usually be the case.

With all of these numerous species now "out-of-play" how did our 
small country like Kenya fare? The answer is exceedingly well, we 
finished the tour with no less than 816 species seen (and nearly all 
by all participants) and a further 10 heard only and three moribund 
(!) bringing the total to 826 forms and 823 without the corpses!!!!! 
This is in all likelihood a world record number of species seen on 
any organised bird tour in the world within one country. We even 
officially deprived Tanzania of one of it's endemics!

I will now give a locality by locality report on the more 
interesting sightings during the tour, and there were some 
surprises. The better records are mentioned, but it is necessary to 
wade through all of the palearctic records that I feel are so 
important at this time of year. 

We flew directly to Mombasa when the group arrived, and then on to 
Shimba Hills Lodge. This was our only serious error, as we had 
nothing not seen the following day, and the morning should have been 
spent in Nairobi Park and we should have flown to Mombasa in the 
afternoon. Two days previously with Mike Davidson, Fleur Ng'Weno and 
Karen Plum we had recorded four species that did not appear on this 
tour!

The adventure started providentially with the finding of the Kenyan 
endemic Shimba Hills Reed Frog (exquisitely colourful) in the 
gentlemens washrooms of Shimba Hills Lodge. On the morning of 10th 
April we drove out to the Makadara Picnic Site before breakfast. The 
area was quite dry and the roads in good condition, a herd of some 
thirty Sable were found on the way. Birds were not that active, 
eight Northern Hobbys passing over, one Yellow Wagtail, 20 Eurasian 
Golden Orioles and the usual Green-headed Orioles, eight Asian 
Lesser Cuckoos included two beautiful bright rufous individuals. We 
saw a pair of the diminutive coastal Pale Flycatchers (maybe some 
work needs to be done here as they are quite different from the 
giants of the interior), a couple of coastal Siffling Cisticolas, 
only one Willow Warbler, five Red-backed Shrikes and two Honey 
Buzzards came circling over the lodge car park as we were about to 
leave.

Whilst driving north, we had two Hobbys harassing an Asian Lesser 
Cuckoo over the creek at Likoni whilst we waited for the ferry, and 
one Common Buzzard over Mombasa.

Mida Creek had a very low tide and had low wader numbers but there 
were about 250 Crab Plovers, though only one Ringed Plover, good 
numbers of Greater Sand Plovers and a couple of Lessers, 80 Grey 
Plover some in startling breeding dress, one each of Sanderling and 
Turnstone, 200 Curlew Sandpipers but only a single Little Stint, 40 
Whimbrel, 2 Greenshank, 6 Terek Sandpipers, 15 Saunder's Terns, two 
Eurasian Cuckoos, one Lesser Grey Shrike, and the strange sight of a 
Hobby sitting out on the mud!

In the late afternoon we visited Sokoke Forest which produced the 
delightful trio of Sokoke Scops Owls at their daytime roost, and at 
sunset Fiery-necked Nightjars entertained us.

However KWS did not entertain us. In the National Parks, a ticket is 
valid for a twenty-four hour entry commencing at time of purchase, 
not so with KWS at Arabuko-Sokoke, the next morning they would not 
budge from stating that our hour in the forest for the Owl 
constituted a whole day and the next morning we had to pay all over 
again. This meant that we could not visit the forest on our final 
morning as planned, as with the size of the group we are talking 
about a considerable sum of dollars. Whoever implemented this ruling 
should be sacked as the damage done to the revenue of the forest 
will be considerable. Thinking that tourists (other than birders) 
will pay evening and the following day is a stupid notion, and for a 
few hours they will just not visit at $20 per head or whatever it 
has been put up to now. KWS has a history of stupid people in its 
ranks, but at the moment the coast is winning by a mile. In addition 
there is no obvious maintenance of the roads taking place inside the 
forest, apart from emptying a few pieces of broken coral in the 
washaways.

The group was entirely dissatisfied by this attitude of money 
grabbing that sadly the name of both KWS and Arabuko-Sokoke will be 
tarnished overseas as soon as they all reach their native shores. 
With our group $600 went into their gate-takings and still this is 
their attitude. It leaves a very bad taste and I will be taking the 
issue further. Our birders stayed 12 nights in Parks or Reserves in 
the country at an average of over $500 just in entry fees per night 
this will give some idea of the revenue bird groups are putting into 
the KWS and NGR economies. 

Back to the birds……..!

We spent the nights on the coast in Scorpio Villas in Malindi, now 
under new management, it was much better than it used to be, 
everything ran smoothly and very comfortably, and so much better 
than their now inferior though much more expensive better known 
neighbours. It made a great base for Sokoke, and meant that Sabaki 
was only a short distance away.

On the morning of the 11th we found small groups of first arrival 
Madagascar Pratincoles over the hotel, then we went into Sokoke 
Forest, and instead of doing two mornings as planned, made the 
entire day of it. There were also Madagascar Pratincoles flying over 
the forest, they seemed to have made an early landfall, but my 
records of previous years show that this is the normal time for 
their first appearance. We saw most of what Sokoke had to offer in 
visiting the main forest and Kararacha in the afternoon. In the 
migrant line there were two Hobbys, six Eurasian and ten Lesser 
Cuckoos, three Willow and one Garden Warbler, 30 Eurasian Golden 
Orioles and a Red-backed Shrike. 

A black Levaillant's Cuckoo was a nice find, as was finding three 
roosting Wood Owls only a couple of metres from the ground, a Pallid 
Honeyguide and four African Golden Orioles in the forestry station, 
and six Clarke's Weavers at Kararacha which completed our last of 
the real local specialities in the forest.

The next morning (12th) we headed to Sabaki, stopping at a small 
flooded area on the way that proved productive. One of a pair of Red-
necked Falcons caught a Yellow-fronted Canary and posed with its 
breakfast. Golden Palm Weavers and Zanzibar Red Bishops were in 
breeding dress. Coastal Cisticolas were cavorting in the rank grass, 
between here and Malindi there were at least 30 Eurasian Golden 
Orioles.

Sabaki had over 500 Lesser and three Greater Flamingos, yet another 
Red-necked Falcon, two Hobbys, surprisingly after the previous days 
arrival, only one Madagascar Pratincole, 20 Ringed, 10 Greater Sand, 
2 Lesser Sand and over 100 Grey Plovers, with seven Black-headed 
Plovers on the grasslands, one each of Common Sandpiper, Sanderling 
and Ruff, two Turnstones, 250 Curlew Sandpipers, 75 Little Stints, 2 
Eurasian Curlew, 20 Whimbrel, 15 Wood Sandpipers 5 Greenshank and 20 
Terek Sandpipers. Continuing the domination of Heuglin's Gull this 
year there was only one Lesser Black-backed in a group of 25 migrant 
gulls (and one Black-headed). Of the eight terns species present 
there were 4 Saunder's, one Caspian, 15 Roseate, 50 Common and 6 
White-winged Black. There was one Eurasian Cuckoo in the scrub, a 
dozen Yellow Wagtails including flava, two Spotted Flycatchers and a 
Sedge Warbler was heard calling. The prize was a pair of the now 
split Eastern Black-headed Batis in the rank growth on the walk down 
to the shore.

At Gongoni we were successful in locating a very territorial pair of 
Malindi Pipits which seemed to enjoy being photographed at close 
quarters, a single Temminck's Courser was a bit of a surprise on the 
coast, a very nice discovery was finding a roosting most attractive 
Nubian Nightjar, and a more reasonably expected Slender-tailed 
Nightjar. There were also three Pangani Longclaws, six Red-backed 
and eight Lesser Grey Shrikes, 

Driving back towards Malindi we stopped for a large raptor circling 
over the road, and were most happy to find an adult Short-toed Snake-
Eagle which was duly digitised.

Having entered Buchuma Gate rather late in the afternoon there was 
not much time for stopping. We had six Amur Falcons sitting on 
bushes by the road, a single Eurasian Roller and Eurasian and 
Donaldson-smith's Nightjars were on the road on the entrance to 
Ndololo Camp.

There were Scops Owls calling at night, and in the morning (13th) a 
Sprosser was singing outside of our tent and two Spotted Flycatchers 
came in to mob a Pearl-spotted Owlet with four Willow Warblers, 
three Whitethroats, an Olivaceous Warbler and 4 Eurasian Golden 
Orioles in the area. Well in excess of 50 Red-backed Shrikes a 
single Red-tailed and 25 Lesser Grey Shrikes were in the scrub 
between Ndololo and Voi Gate. On driving towards Voi Gate we also 
had two Lesser Spotted Eagles and three Amur Falcons.

In the Taita Hills we found an obliging pair of Striped Pipits, and 
there was still a Chiffchaff present as well as the more normal 
residents. A Honey Buzzard circled low over the road near Mwatete.

Driving from Taitas there were over 60 Eurasian Rollers along the 
roadside, and on entering Tsavo Gate entrance we drove to Ngulia 
Lodge, there were 40 Vulturine Guineafowl feeding along the road, 

At the Lodge there were 5 Eurasian and one Plain Nightjar feeding on 
insects attracted by the light.

On the 14th there had been a small fall at the lodge. There was a 
freshly dead River Warbler in the restaurant as well as two equally 
deceased Marsh Warblers, and a Sedge Warbler which was rescued and 
in the garden, three Eurasian Golden Orioles, plus singles of 
Nightingale, Spotted Flycatcher and Willow Warbler. The dominant 
migrants were 15 Whitethroats. 

After breakfast we left for the whole day for an outing to Lake 
Jipe, On the way we found five Amur Falcons with two adult male 
Western Red-footed Falcons, a real surprise. Equally amazing some 
twenty kilometres from the western Maktau Gate, we found a Somali 
Bee-eater holding food as if it was going to visit a nearby nest. 
Unfortunately we did not have enough time to wait by the bird, as 
there was still quite a distance to travel, but it was in the 
identical place on the return journey. Also there were 3 Hobbys, a 
Eurasian Cuckoo a single Yellow-billed Hornbill, always uncommon in 
Tsavo West. A pair of Pale Prinias also lend evidence that the 
species might still be spreading slowly southwards. At the lake 
there was not a lot of activity, but there was a Eurasian Marsh 
Harrier, one Yellow Wagtail, 5 Lesser Kestrels in the plains, a 
couple of Eurasian Swifts, five Eurasian Rollers, with totals of 75 
Red-backed and 40 Lesser Grey Shrikes spread over the area. Non 
migrants included two Zanzibar Red Bishops, and 20 Taveta Golden 
Weavers with males in breeding plumage.

On return there were two Eurasian and one Plain Nightjar around the 
lights of the lodge.

We returned to Nairobi on the 15th, the birdbath at Ngulia was 
attracting eight Jameson's Firefinches, so nice to see the birds not 
skulking in rank cover for once. A Basra Reed Warbler was in fine 
form feeding in scraggy annuals on the lawn and posed most 
obligingly with 3 Marsh, 2 Upcher's and a Willow Warbler with five 
Whitethroats. 

We had a pre-breakfast drive to the area around Ngulia Airstrip, 
better finds here were four Red-naped Bush-Shrikes which showed 
well, also a few Pringle's Puffbacks. There were also three Eurasian 
Cuckoos on the way out of the park, as well as a single Eurasian 
Swift, five Eurasian Rollers, 3 Spotted Flycatchers, over 100 Red-
backed , 30 Lesser Grey Shrikes and 6 Eurasian Golden Orioles.

We woke up on the 16th at Whistling Thorns for a morning on the 
Magadi Road, there were three Eurasian Cuckoos on the lawn before we 
left, along the road there were single Common Buzzard and Hobby, 
another 4 Eurasian Cuckoos, nine Eurasian Bee-eaters flew over, a 
couple of Short-tailed Larks, two Yellow Wagtails, 2 each of Great 
Reed and Marsh Warblers, 4 each of Willow and Garden Warblers, 2 Red-
backed Shrikes, and on the Camel Road, the Steel-blue Whydahs were 
in fine plumage together with many Paradise. Finally there were 500 
Abdim's Storks at Ol Tepesi. We left here for Blue Posts.

The 17th April we had a look around the Blue Posts, on the river we 
were fortunate enough to find a Finfoot, a single Trumpeter 
Hornbill, the usual pair of Brown-hooded Kingfishers and 6 Grey-
olive Greenbuls, the garden also had three Willow Warblers.

At Kieni Forest we had a fine assortment of montane species but 
nothing out of the ordinary.

The fields near the Kinangop Flyover were full of lush pasture, a 
very good find here were at least six pairs of African Snipe flying 
around displaying and drumming. I am not sure when Kenya last had a 
breeding record for this species and they are well worth going to 
see. Five Hobbys flew over the area, and yet another Honey Buzzard. 
A very encouraging find was 20 Sharpe's Longclaws quite a remarkable 
concentration. The paddock also had one Wing-snapping and two 
Levaillant's Cisticolas, and a Red-throated Pipit.

In the evening we arrived at Naivasha, there was a Little Bittern on 
the jetty, two Eurasian Cuckoos on the lawn, a single Great Reed, 
two Sedge Warblers, and four Eurasian Golden Orioles.

We had a boat-trip on the lake on the morning of the 18th, of 
interest were single Black-headed and Heuglin's Gulls, two Hobbys, a 
single Ringed Plover and Marsh Sandpiper, five Common Sandpipers, 25 
Ruff, 6 Wood Sandpipers, 20 White-winged Black Terns, no less than 
10 Eurasian Cuckoos on the lawn including one hepatic female, only 
one Yellow Wagtail, three Sand Martins, single Whinchat, Spotted 
Flycatcher, Marsh Warbler and Whitethroat, two Sedge Warblers, 
amongst the 30 Willow Warblers were two nice Wood Warblers, six Red-
backed and two Lesser Grey Shrikes finally two Eurasian Golden 
Orioles. Leaving Naivasha we found African Black Swifts prospecting 
for nest sites in a building, the same was happening at KWS offices 
Hippo Point (Naivasha) this time last year.

At the pasture near North Kinangop we were fortunate enough to find 
six Common Quail, another six Sharpe's Longclaw's, four Wing-
snapping Cisticolas with much displaying and a pair of Levaillant's 
Cisticolas.

Crossing the Aberdares from Mutubio Gate to Nyeri we easily found 
Jackson's Francolins, Hill Chats and Aberdare Cisticolas, a few 
Scarlet-tufted Malachite Sunbirds sang from giant heather and a 
flock of 30 Lesser Kestrels passed overhead.

We called in at Wajee, there were five Hinde's Babblers present, but 
an adult Sooty Falcon passed over and the biggest surprise were two 
Buff-spotted Flufftails wailing from the thick lantana growth.

On arrival at Mountain Lodge there were still two Green Sandpipers 
on the waterhole.

It rained heavily on the mountain overnight, and on the morning of 
the 19th, we bird-watched from the roof before breakfast. The two 
Green Sandpipers were still there, along the road there were five 
Eurasian Cuckoos, two Eurasian Bee-eaters flew over.

On arrival at the Naro Moru entrance to the Park, we were advised 
that the road up to the Met Station was impassable, this was a blow 
but we made the most of birding the lower road. We found five 
Eurasian Swifts amongst the 60 or more Scarce Swifts, a single 
Chiffchaff and strangely only a single Willow Warbler, an attractive 
pair of Abbott's Starlings, six Sharpe's and plenty of Waller's.