Dear All,

I have just finished a rather long safari.....

On 9th January we visited the Magadi Road for the day. A bush 
skimming Honey Buzzard at First Icross Road came as a surprise in 
view of the late date for a passage bird, but only a few kilometres 
down the road, I was staggered to find a migrating flock of fifty 
Common Buzzards.... Just what is going on this year, to still have 
such a southerly movement in January (or has the northward passage 
started already?). Other nice birds of the day were Bare-eyed Thrush 
also at First Icross Road, a pair of Verreaux's Eagles out near 
Emerit, and a Pygmy Falcon along the road not far from Ol Tepesi, 
never a common bird down here, otherwise much as would be expected, 
and very very dry throughout.

On the 10th January looking out from Whistling Thorns, there was 
much drepanolobium that should be investigated at a later date. 
Limuru Ponds are very low, but there are fairly good numbers of 
ducks and waders though nothing out of the ordinary. At the pond 
near the sewage treatment plant there was a pale phase Booted Eagle 
and a Rufous-breasted Sparrowhawk (I have seen those there before).

The Kinangop grasslands towards Kieni had received rain, Long-tailed 
Widowbirds were very prominent, Sharpe's Longclaws also displaying, 
and something I have not seen there in a while, Wing-snapping 
Cisticolas very co-operative and noisy.

Kieni Forest produced the normal assemblage of birds, the least 
common for that location being a Brown-chested Alethe.

The 11th January started at Lake Naivasha, not too much of note, the 
more interesting being two Black Egrets and a Saddle-billed Stork. 
Past North Kinangop in the grassy valley were several Levaillant's 
and Wing-snapping Cisticolas, one Sharpe's Longclaw and two African 
Snipe which I managed to get some good photographs of. At Jabini 
there was an Angola Swallow holding territory around a house, this 
is an interesting record at high altitude in the Aberdares, although 
on the Timau side of Mt. Kenya the species goes up to the start of 
the moorlands.

The moorland produced much as one would expect, although two 
Chiffchaff at Matubio Gate were a nice find, and three Tacazze 
Sunbirds, I don't recall seeing them on the western side of the Park 
before. The last evening at Njoro River in Lake Nakuru had a 
charming flock of no less than seventeen Grey-crested Helmet-shrike, 
but at the mouth there were few waders, and two Black-headed Gulls.

On the 12th January, Lake Nakuru was a bit disappointing, for the 
first time in several years the Dimorphic Egrets were not found, it 
was so dry that there were few birds along the road under the 
acacias, and not much was singing. At the Hippo Picnic Point (Lanet) 
there were four Temminck's Stint and three Spotted Redshank, and a 
flock of over a hundred Cape Teal, but that was about it.

We were at Dunga Point on the morning of the 13th January, the water 
level was quite down, and although we initially took a canoe, the 
grounding necessitated walking along the point for the main part. 
There were many waders, and a staggering flock of over 250 African 
Skimmers. It is a wonderful and very birdy spot at present, but the 
highlight for me was not a bird. On the edge of a lagoon we found a 
posing quite stunning male Sitatunga, the first time in Kenya that I 
have seen them away from Saiwa Swamp (apart from the Lewa 
introduction). Not one papyrus speciality was to be seen or heard, 
so we had to stop half way back to Hippo Point for Papyrus Gonolek, 
the Kisumu Yacht Club for Greater Swamp Warbler, Carruther's 
Cisticola and Papyrus Canary, and the Yala River for a very 
extravert White-winged Warbler. Continuing through to Malaba we 
crossed into Uganda.

On the morning of the 14th January we were heading up north on the 
western side of Mt. Elgon to Lake Bisina. In an area of scrubby 
bushland we found a number of migrants which included four Woodchat 
Shrikes, a Eurasian Wryneck, six Whinchats and three Whitethroat. 
Whilst at Lake Bisina, a superb gigantic Long-legged Buzzard was 
feeding over the savannah. Fox's Weavers led us quite a chase but 
eventually capitulated, some nice Papyrus Canaries were in the reeds 
and we finally found a pair of Lesser Jacanas. There were very large 
numbers of Eurasian Swifts on our return to Jinja.

The following day the 15th January, we were in Mabira Forest the 
entire day, and the only migrants were numerous Eurasian Swift, Barn 
Swallows and two Willow Warblers. Forest birds were quite quiet but 
highlights included Cassin's Spinetail, Blue-throated Roller, 
Chestnut-winged Starling and Tit-Hylia, not species that can be 
guaranteed at the site.

On the 16th January we went to Mabamba Wetlands not far from Entebbe 
ostensibly for Shoebills, an interesting thing here was a pair of 
African Marsh Harriers flying around calling with much displaying 
and are undoubtedly thinking of nesting here.

Returning to Kenya on 17th  January, we stopped at the huge Rice 
area at Bidinda (?) not too far from the border. This was attracting 
impressive numbers of marsh birds including three Little Ringed 
Plover, the first I have personally seen in Uganda. After crossing 
the border at Busia we went straight to the small pond by the 
footbridge over the Nzoia River next to the pumping station, we had 
a number of niceties, Allen's Gallinule, a pair of local Little 
Bitterns, Marsh Tchagra, Brown Twinspot, Fawn-bellied Waxbill, but 
few migrants apart from Sedge Warblers and Whinchats. Nambale was 
productive with a large male de Brazza's Monkey, the best birds 
being seven Locust Finches, which instead of being flighty and 
leaving were faithful to the same patch of short grass, and were 
able to be seen on the ground. There was a Purple Starling here 
also, we should probably record all records of this species now, as 
it is very severely pressured in Kenya. A pair of Rock Pratincoles 
were on the Nzoia at Mumias.

Kakamega was very dry on the 18th and early morning of 19th January, 
and although a few birds were calling very early morning they soon 
became quiet, and had to be searched out. We managed to track down 
most species, Chapin's Flycatcher was as usual near the Ikuywa River 
bridge. There were more Pale-breasted Illadopsis singing in the 
mornings than is usually the case. The only interesting migrants 
were two different Wood Warblers, one of which was in the garden at 
Rondo.

Continuing on to Baringo on the 18th, we had a number of stops, 
Boran Cisticola below Tambach, Lead-coloured Flycatcher along the 
Kerio etc. again an absence of migrants however.

Sadly on the 20th  January our proposed excursion to Kapedo was 
cancelled because of the current tribal clashes between the Pokot 
and the Turkanas. We returned to the Kerio and spent the better part 
of the day there. In acacia scrub near Baringo we found a late Olive 
Tree Warbler that could conceivably be wintering in the area. The 
highlight was discovering a pair of Gambaga Flycatchers in scrub 
immediately above Kiboino on the north side. They were most obliging 
and were duly digitised. These may be the first of the species taken 
in Kenya (or anywhere), and I will put them on the net., so that 
they can be studied. Returning to Baringo for a walk along the shore 
in the evening was also to prove productive. At present the high 
water level and invasion of Prosopia, makes the lodge very 
disappointing for migrants. However I found that by going out of the 
back gate (near the rooms 30's) there is a path penetrating the 
Prosopia down to the open shoreline. This is well worth the effort 
as there are muddy promontories full of birds. Undoubtedly the star 
was the most incredibly stunning of Abyssinian Rollers that was so 
tame, my first southern wanderer for some years now. There was a 
good collection of migrant waders that included fourteen Black-
tailed Godwits, thirty-five Ringed Plover and five Temminck's Stints.

On the 21st  January the Abyssinian Roller was still in the same 
place, and we later found out known for some time from the 
naturalists at the Lodge.

Migrants were still so poor, a female Eurasian Golden Oriole was 
late on passage, and there was one Eurasian Hoopoe. Leaving Baringo, 
the treatment ponds at Athenai were not only attracting very few 
waders, but the White Wagtails had not returned to this their 
favourite of haunts. Crossing the Solio Ranch road to Naro Moru, 
there was a compact flock of over a hundred Banded Martins resting 
on the fence, an impressive gathering for the species.

On 22nd  January, Naro Moru River Lodge is now very sad, this once 
haven for birds is on its last legs, because the management has 
bulldozed a huge area of what was prime scrub sheltering Brown-
backed Scrub-Robins and Brown Parisomas, and turned it into a rather 
scrappy vegetable plot. The river is so low that no duck could float 
without beaching on the stones.... The place is now of very little 
ornithological interest and the only thing out of the ordinary was a 
late migrant Marsh Warbler. A walk on the hill at Timau Junction 
(road to Isiolo) produced a roosting Dusky Nightjar, and a Siffling 
Cisticola territory, the first I have seen of either species in that 
area. There was a single Grasshopper Buzzard between Isiolo and 
Buffalo Springs.

Our full day in Buffalo Springs on 23rd   January revealed that the 
area was not very suitable for migrants, the dry conditions made 
finding the birds very difficult by comparison to after the long 
rains, but the long grass testified to their having been recent good 
rains. The highlight of the day was a single Northern Carmine Bee-
eater.

We sped through Buffalo Springs on 24th January, heading to Shaba 
for the morning. There was much long grass, and the lava field was 
also completely covered with vegetation. Nevertheless we managed to 
find four William's Larks, although no sign of Masked Larks. 
Migrants were much more in evidence with Irania and Rufous Bush-
Chats around the bases of the kopjes. The area is full of Harriers, 
presumably because the long grass is so attractive at present. 
Calling in at Meru Forest, we found a pair of Black-and-White 
Flycatchers but little else in the late afternoon.

A beautiful morning on the road up to the Met Station on the Naro 
Moru side of Mt. Kenya on the 25th  January was all the more 
attractive with the dozen or more Chiffchaffs in full song, 
presumably having completed their moult. Nothing else unexpected 
revealed itself though.

On the 26th January we had an early departure from Naro Moru, there 
were many birds along the Solio Road, the best being a Sharpe's 
Longclaw, and at least fifteen Whinchats, that must be on their 
winter territories. Some fifty Lesser Kestrels were also along this 
road. At Wajee Camp, five Hinde's Babblers put on a fine show for 
us. Both Mwea Rice and Thika Sewage Ponds were a bit disappointing, 
but the latter did produce a White Wagtail. Duck numbers are low for 
the time of year though.

We spent the early morning of the 27th January at Blue Posts, many 
of the usual "coastal" specialities were found such as Trumpeter 
Hornbill, Brown-hooded Kingfisher and Zanzibar Sombre Greenbul, Grey-
olive Greenbuls were more reticent than usual to show themselves. 
However the highlight was an adult Eurasian Spoonbill that flew 
right over us, I can think of many more likely localities to hope 
for that species, and Blue Posts certainly would not be on that list.

We then drove the long distance to Ngutuni Lodge not far from Voi 
arriving in the dark. 

Once again migrants were a bit disappointing, however a movement in 
the early morning of 28th January, consisted in the region of a 
thousand Eurasian Rollers, and this was an impressive sight. They 
stretched from horizon to horizon heading in a north-easterly 
direction. I would never have though such numbers would already be 
leaving us in January.

Ngangao Forest in Taita Hills was quiet as far as the residents were 
concerned, but there were at least four different Chiffchaff 
singing. This is either an extraordinary year, or we are never in 
the Kenyan mountains at the right time of year, in the one week that 
they sing after moulting! The four endemics were eventually located, 
and even Orange Ground-Thrush which I always find a struggle. Lake 
Jipe had some nice pools around the edge, but there seems to be a 
lot more reed cover now. Zanzibar Red Bishops were just coming into 
plumage.

On the morning of 29th January we witnessed a similar Roller 
movement, found that Aruba Dam has become completely inaccessible 
because some lodge has started construction on the site (it was 
completely closed off with not a sole working on the place), and we 
found that depriving birders of this focal point of Tsavo East was 
most unacceptable. Chestnut-backed Sparrowlarks were still locatable 
in the immediate vicinity however. Leaving through Sala Gate, the 
road to Malindi was in good condition and only took one-and-a half 
hours. That afternoon we were on Sabaki River Estuary, and whilst it 
was very interesting there was nothing out of the ordinary. Eight 
Black-headed Gulls maybe of some note and a White Wagtail.

We found most of the Sokoke birds on the 30th, but again birds 
required digging for, and Clarke's Weavers completely eluded us, 
which was unfortunate when we were doing so well on the endemics. 
Gongoni has far too many people cultivating the area, and for the 
first time I was not able to locate Malindi Pipit, but found the 
first of the red-tailed Spotted Flycatchers that I will come to 
later.

31st January marked already the end of the first month in 2005, Mida 
Creek was as nice as always but no interesting finds apart from a 
few Forbes-Watson's Swifts. Heading south we crossed the border at 
Lunga Lunga where a Bat Hawk put on a display like I have never 
witnessed before. For ten minutes it just flew around us, then 
darkness took over and we continued to Tanga.

Not Kenyabirdsnet material for the next eleven days, but may be of 
interest to people visiting the area.

Morning of 1st   February we examined the environs of Tanga, finding 
our first Mangrove Kingfishers, Coastal Cisticolas and Mouse-
coloured Sunbirds. There were a few Green Tinkerbirds in the 
mangroves, a phenomenon I had seen before in Tanzania, but never in 
Kenya. In the afternoon we flew to Pemba.

The finding of the Pemba Scops Owl is indeed an experience if you 
use the local guide available through the Manta Reef Lodge. He has a 
tiny cassette player, with tiny cassettes and on this is a recording 
of the Pemba Scops Owl. This is then plugged into a megaphone 
presumably borrowed from a local mosque. I had been forwarned.... 
The best way to illustrate the situation is from a friends recent 
trip when he was leading a British group..... "The flight was highly 
efficient and whisked us up and over Zanzibar landing us in good 
time for a visit to Ngezi Forest where we hoped to find the Pemba 
Scops Owl. We were expected and an appointment had been made for 
the "owl-man" to show us the owl 

However things didn't quite turn out as expected! The owl-man 
greeted us and

went off to get his equipment and reappeared with a small cassette 
player, a microphone and a loudspeaker of the type usually attached 
to mosques to amplify the call to prayer! Before we knew it the 
voice of the scops owl was being blasted into the forest at a volume 
that could have been heard all over the island. Horrified, we 
pleaded with them to stop but intent on their mission they continued 
to play back at full volume, the owl hoots interspersed with 
crackles, rumbles, whines and feedback sounds usually associated 
with a heavy rock concert! We were assured that this was the normal 
way to show the owl to visitors and that attracted to the sound the 
owls came and sat out in the open in the clove trees and palms 
surrounding the visitors centre. Needless to say

this scenario never manifested itself as a chorus of owls inside the
forest timidly hooted back at the giant voice from outside. Finally 
we convinced the owl-man to stop and we took over the proceedings. 
After some worrying space of time when nothing called back from the 
darkness gradually the owls were coaxed to call again and after some 
searching one was found in the branches above our heads. The scope 
was set up on it and great views were had by all."

So I was mentally prepared for this, and firstly the owl-man in 
spite of the rendezvous had made another rendezvous which he had 
kept, our guide then called in at his house and borrowed the 
cassette player and this truly enormous megaphone. I could see him 
banging the player, and eventually he said the batteries were dead. 
I gave him two AA's and absolutely nothing happened and it still 
failed to turn... so we were not to witness the rock-concert after 
all.

Hopefully the equipment still does not function, and visitors can 
find their own owl by walking into the forest with a good torch, as 
we did.

The 2nd February saw us at a swamp not too far from the lodge, it 
was very easy to locate the remaining three endemics, but also there 
were a number of Pygmy-Geese, Mangrove Kingfishers, heaps of Brown-
headed Parrots, Broad-billed Rollers and Madagascar Bee-eaters. The 
Paradise Flycatcher looked like the Madagascan with shiny blue hood, 
extensive fluorescent blue skin around the eye but a longer tail. In 
the afternoon we located Southern Grey-headed Sparrow around the 
airport, and departed for Tanga and continued on to Amani.

There was no dawn chorus on the morning of the 3rd February, from 
the hostel as the light improved Uluguru Violet-backed and Banded 
Green Sunbirds appeared to feed in the lichen covered branches and 
Cabanis' (Three-streaked) Buntings made an attempt at singing. Our 
one full day was eventful, and we did very well although there was 
much searching. In the evening I had a new snake in the form of a 
Southern File Snake. 

We left early on the morning of the 4th February birding the slopes 
on the way down, and arrived in the afternoon at Lushoto in the West 
Usambaras. We picked up a number of species in forest right next to 
Muller's Mountain Lodge, even Usambara Nightjars flying around 
eucalypt flowers at dusk, although they never uttered a sound. My 
highlight was finding Usambara Soft-horned Chameleon however.

The morning of the 5th February was rewarding on the Magamba Sawmill 
Road, and whilst a few Willow Warblers no Chiffchaff voices broke 
the silence. Extravert Usambara Weavers got themselves well and 
truly digitised. 

On 6th February 2005 we left early stopping for Striped Pipit on the 
decent, then heading northwards to Same to look for Pare White-eye. 
Our driver deposited us in thorn scrub at the base of the hills and 
stated emphatically that this was where he had shown people Pare 
White-eye. I said that being a Mountain-type White-eye it would only 
be in the thick montane forest on the top. There were Abyssinian 
White-eye around and it occurred to me that many keen listers have 
ticked this off in the past as the Pare White-eye. Time did not 
permit the ascent and it will have to wait another day, however the 
excursion was not wasted as we found Variable Indigobirds singing on 
the same branches as their Jameson's Firefinch hosts, and Rock-
loving Cisticolas in the rocky outcrops at the tops of the first 
hills. From here it was straight to Arusha for overnight with White-
bellied Hedgehog in the car park.

On the morning of 7th February we were on the northern circuit but 
somewhat rushed, first out to Tarangire for one afternoon, however 
Ashy Starling and Yellow-collared Lovebird are really no problem. 
There was a pair of Amur Falcons feeding with Lesser Ketrels over 
the swamp, and two Rufous-bellied Herons there. Leaving late 
morning  8th February we arrived at Ngorongoro spending the 
afternoon in the Crater, but no surprises there, although the 
acacias on the descent road from Sopa Lodge are good for Brown 
Parisomas.

Early morning of 9th February we birded the rim, plenty of Blackcaps 
about and a few of the other specialities of the rim such as 
Schalow' Turaco and Black-capped Mountain Greenbul, then drove out 
to Serengeti. An owlet imitation at Naabi Gate whilst waiting for 
formalities to be completed netted our first Icterine Warbler, still 
with white underparts although the throat was bright yellow, and our 
fourth Wood Warbler for the tour. Then out to Serenera before 
crossing to Serengeti Sopa for the night.

We birded around the lodge on the morning of the 10th February, 
picking up birds usually for us associated with the western Mara 
such as Tabora Cisticola and Pale Wren Warbler. It was here that for 
the second time in the tour I called out Redstart, and for the 
second time the bird turned out to be a Spotted Flycatcher as with 
the bird at Gongoni. On examining the bird it was found to be more 
subtley marked, the streaking on the crown subdued, and the retrices 
rusty, this not being a product of soil staining. Identical to the 
Gongoni bird, with stance and overall appearance just a Spotted 
Flycatcher. Has anyone else seen anything like this? Other than this 
the most interesting being the Tanzanian Red-billed Hornbill which 
could always wander north and enter our side, although nothing like 
that has been reported. If anyone finds a Red-billed Hornbill in the 
Mara it is more likely this and will require some scrutiny. The 
valleys south of Keekerok are the place to start looking, especially 
at the bases of the hills.

Whilst formalities were being completed again at Naabi Gate, an 
owlet mobbing brought in a Barred Warbler, uncommon this far west. 
Then it was quite a rush back to Arusha.

Departing early on 11th February, we stopped at the lark plains to 
look for Beesley's Lark recently split from Spike-heeled Lark. They 
used to be easy to find here, but I spent six hours last August 
failing to find them and the two hours on this occasion also failed 
to reward. Since then it would appear that there have been no 
records of the species since last July, so it will need to be 
relocated as it has evidently moved off. 

Continuing through the border we spent the last afternoon in Nairobi 
Park where our only new bird for the tour was Nairobi Pipit, 
nevertheless a fine finish.

In 34 days with adverse conditions virtually throughout, with severe 
droughts all over the region we managed to record 912 species of 
which we saw 895. This really testifies to East Africa being the 
birdiest destination on this planet... eat your heart out South 
America!

After two days I departed for six days at Ol Doniyo Wuas at the 
southern foot of the Chyulus. There were quite a few migrants, 
Nightingales but no Sprossers or Iranias, numerous Whitethroats but 
no other Sylvias, no Acrocephalus, hardly any migrant raptors apart 
from numerous Harriers, Lesser Kestrels and a couple of Common 
Buzzards. Flocks of Caspian Plovers are coming into breeding plumage.

The only surprises were Brown-hooded Kingfisher in scrubby growth on 
a lava flow, and a pair of Lead-coloured Flycatchers in the same 
place. Whilst I have seen both on the Kibwezi Forest side, I thought 
this rather dry although Nicator was common enough. The other being 
a party of seven White-headed Mousebirds which almost completes a 
distibution from Taveta to eastern Amboseli up to Emali and now 
across to the southern Chyulus. Why then is the species absent in 
Tsavo West? Few places are as good for seeing nightjars, not only in 
numbers but variety and we recorded Dusky, Plain, Donaldson-smith's, 
Slender-tailed, Freckled and Eurasian.

Very best to all for now

Brian